Researchers: The age of coffee is more than half a million years

The cup of coffee you drank this morning might trace its roots back 600,000 years.

A new study published in Nature Genetics on April 15, 2024, has revealed that Coffea arabica—the world’s most popular coffee species—emerged through natural crossbreeding between two other species long before human cultivation.

Researchers from the University at Buffalo and Nestlé examined genetic data from coffee plants around the world to construct a comprehensive family tree of Coffea arabica. Their findings indicate that the species originated approximately 600,000 years ago, when Coffea canephora (robusta) and Coffea eugenioides hybridized naturally in the wild.

“In other words, this occurred long before any human intervention,” said Victor Albert, a biologist at the University at Buffalo and co-lead author of the study.

The wild ancestors of arabica first appeared in the highlands of Ethiopia, but it was in Yemen, during the 1400s, that the beans were first roasted and brewed—marking the beginning of coffee culture as we know it today.

By the 1600s, legend has it that Indian monk Baba Budan smuggled seven coffee beans from Yemen to India, laying the foundation for global coffee cultivation.

Today, arabica accounts for 60–70% of the world’s coffee production, prized for its smooth, mildly sweet flavor. It forms the backbone of beverages served by leading brands such as Starbucks, Tim Hortons, and Dunkin’.

The remaining 30–40% of the market comes from Coffea canephora—commonly known as robusta—a stronger and more bitter relative of arabica.

To uncover arabica’s genetic history, the team analyzed the genomes of C. canephora, C. eugenioides, and more than 30 arabica samples, including an 18th-century specimen preserved in the Natural History Museum in London. This very sample was once studied by Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus when he officially classified the species.

The study shows that arabica’s population has fluctuated greatly over millennia—thriving during warm and wet periods, but shrinking during dry epochs. These “population bottlenecks” left arabica with low genetic diversity, making it highly vulnerable to diseases such as coffee leaf rust, which costs the global coffee industry billions each year.

Researchers also examined a rust-resistant arabica variety to identify genetic markers that could help breeders develop hardier plants. These insights, scientists say, could be key to safeguarding the species against the growing threats of pests and climate change.

“This study not only clarifies arabica’s evolutionary history but also provides crucial clues for protecting one of the world’s most valuable crops,” said Fabian Echeverria, adviser at the Center for Coffee Research and Education at Texas A&M University, who was not involved in the research.

By retracing arabica’s ancient lineage, scientists hope to ensure a sustainable future for coffee cultivation—keeping plants healthy, farmers resilient, and morning cups full for generations to come.

Coffee Cascara: Ancient Yemeni Heritage Reshaping Coffee Culture

Recently, cascara coffee has been gaining increasing attention, especially in European and American countries, where its origins, benefits, and preparation methods are being explored. Although some claims attribute the invention of cascara coffee to specific countries or baristas, the truth reveals a completely different story.

Cascara coffee is nothing but coffee cherry husks, an ancient innovation dating back thousands of years to Yemen, where Yemenis have used it and continue to trade it in local markets to this day. Coffee cherry husks have also been used in some coffee-producing countries like Ethiopia and Bolivia.

It can be said that coffee cherry husks are an integral part of Yemenis’ lives, as it is considered the favorite drink for various occasions. Yemenis used coffee cherry husks to prepare their daily coffee, while they used coffee beans for morning coffee only.

In the past, Yemenis would separate coffee cherry husks and consume them locally in the production of the finest coffee varieties, exporting coffee beans to the world. Today, coffee cherry husks can be found in various markets in Yemen, where traders compete to sell them, and their quality varies depending on their types.

Cascara coffee is distinguished by its enchanting preparation method and unique taste, where coffee cherry husks are gently boiled and ginger or cinnamon is added to enhance the flavor, and the drink is sweetened with sugar or consumed without it.

Yemenis discovered the benefits of coffee cherry husks since ancient times. It has been and still is used as a preferred product for women during the first month after childbirth. It was also used by farmers in Yemen before heading to their farms, where it helped them face the scarcity of drinking water in the farms where they worked for long periods under the hot sun. Coffee cherry husks would sustain them, reduce thirst, and the need for water.

Additionally, it is believed that coffee cherry husks help in fat loss, improve digestion, and strengthen the immune system.

Although cascara drink is considered new in American and European markets, it has been a staple drink in Yemen, Ethiopia, and Bolivia for many centuries. Recently, coffee producers have started using coffee cherry husks to produce this unique drink, which can be served hot or cold.

Certainly, cascara or coffee cherry husk drink revives the traditions of authentic Yemeni coffee and offers coffee lovers an unforgettable experience.

Cascara coffee carries with it a rich history and culture, blending its unique flavor with the authentic Yemeni coffee traditions to provide an exceptional experience for coffee lovers around the world.

With the increasing interest in cascara coffee and its preference by coffee lovers, we can expect to see more traders and baristas adopting this unique drink and offering it on their menus, making it an integral part of the diverse global coffee culture.

Medina Qahwa: Crafting Coffee with a Human Touch

I first laid eyes on her at the World of coffee Dubai 2024. Despite her bustling pace through the exhibition halls, I couldn’t seize the opportunity to converse with her. Fortunately, my daughter struck up a conversation and obtained her contact details. Our inaugural encounter unfolded post-exhibition at ALSercal Avenue, where we exchanged dialogue over a steaming cup of matcha tea.

Unfamiliar with Medina Ilyas, the name of her coffee enterprise, “Medina Coffee,” intrigued me. “Who are you?” I inquired. “I’m a woman from Kazakhstan who married an Omani man and relocated to Oman,” she replied. Following the eruption of conflict in Yemen, a neighboring nation to Oman, I received inquiries from acquaintances about the situation there. Unaware of the circumstances, I was enlightened by their accounts of the war’s dire toll on children, some succumbing to starvation. This prompted me to contemplate ways to extend aid. Upon researching Yemen, I unearthed its pivotal role in coffee’s history, igniting within me a desire to support its populace through coffee cultivation and commerce.

Medina initiated a humanitarian forum in Muscat, convening women to strategize aid efforts for Yemen. We amassed considerable funds and dispatched them promptly. This initiative sparked the inception of a commercial endeavor aimed at providing sustainable assistance – thus, “Medina Coffee” came into being. It represents not just a business venture but a humanitarian endeavor.

Embarking on a journey across the Arabian Peninsula, Medina delved into the realm of coffee, amassing over 700 Arab coffee recipes, 10 of which were published in a tome titled “The Art of Arab Coffee” In this opus, Medina Elias, a coffee aficionado and founder of Medina Coffee Company, delves into the opulent cultural heritage of authentic Arab coffee.

The cultivation, roasting, and preparation of Arab coffee were originally pioneered and perfected in the Arabian Peninsula. Arab coffee transcends mere refreshment; it embodies a cultural ethos and serves as a cornerstone of Middle Eastern hospitality. With roots tracing back centuries in the Middle East, its traditions have endured across generations.

Medina divulges her secrets of coffee preparation, featuring unique recipes incorporating cardamom, frankincense, or saffron, resulting in exquisitely rich and flavorful Arab coffee. “The Art of Arab Coffee” encompasses a succinct history of Arab coffee, offering insights into Arab culture and hospitality, alongside key revelations about the world of Arab coffee and its profound health benefits.

Enriched with captivating anecdotes, the book unveils the origins of coffee, from an Ethiopian goatherd named Kaldi to Sufi monks in Yemen who imbibed it to maintain wakefulness during nocturnal meditations. Presently, Medina endeavors to inaugurate her inaugural coffee shop in Dubai and expand her commercial footprint across the UAE and beyond.

Elaf Mustafa’s Artistic Journey through Yemeni Coffee Heritage

Dubai  – Ali Alzakary

In the enchanting realms of Sanaa and Haraz, the life of Elaf Mustafa unfolds among the layers of Yemen’s rich soil. As a connoisseur of language, literature, art, and coffee, Elaf embarked on an academic path in translation and linguistics, finding herself guided by the intertwined forces of art, language, and the world of coffee.

Her connection to coffee is not a recent one; it is deeply rooted in her family’s history of cultivating and trading coffee beans. The fertile lands in Haraz, adorned with ancient coffee trees, tell stories that traverse generations, weaving a fabric of identity and knowledge.

Elaf’s journey, branching into diverse paths, testifies to the resilience imprinted in her experiences. Whether facing challenges through books, art, or embracing comforting coffee, she always designs alternative plans to navigate the ever-changing currents of life. And there is Sanaa, the captivating city that, despite challenges, never fails to inspire resilience.

In this interview, Elaf Mustafa explores her fascinating life, delving into the intersection of her academic pursuits, family heritage in coffee cultivation, and the profound impact of history on her journey as an artist. From her initial encounters with written words to the rich inspiration drawn from her family’s coffee heritage, Elaf paints a vivid picture of her evolution as an artist, revealing the symbiotic relationship between the brush and the coffee tree.

Join us as we uncover the layers of Elaf’s artistic narrative, where each stroke on the canvas echoes the stories of her ancestors and the enduring spirit of Yemeni coffee.

Who is Elaf Mustafa?

“I have lived my life between the lands of Sanaa and Haraz, and both have a vast space in my soul. I love everything related to language, literature, art, and coffee. Despite my passion for painting, which has accompanied me for years, I specialized academically in translation and linguistics. Today, I see that both art and language have led me to the path of coffee.

My affiliation with coffee is not a recent thing. My family has a deep history in the cultivation and trade of coffee. We own several farms in our hometown, Haraz, including farms that contained, and still are to this day, coffee trees that have lived for a decade, and through which ancestral stories, ancient knowledge and identity have been transmitted.

Between today and the past, I feel that I have branched out a lot. However, it’s worth mentioning that what I and my generation experienced in previous periods has shaped us in a way that one lifetime is not enough. We learned how to appreciate life, and in every instance when challenges prevailed, we had to devise alternative plans to navigate through the constantly changing waves of life. And there is Sanaa, the enchanting city that never lets us fall without inspiring us to rise, no matter how deep the trenches.”

How did your journey with coffee begin, and how were you influenced by the history and heritage of your family in coffee cultivation?

“My father had a library that contained many of history books, including those talking about ancient and contemporary civilizations. Thanks to his continuous encouragement for reading, I read many of them starting from the age of ten. I found that Yemen has a rich history that cannot be covered by volumes or thousands of books. But through my readings, I found that coffee created a beacon of light in this journey, through various stations. It connected with Yemenis through ages as a window and light. It’s noteworthy that it has been and still is creating and telling stories, and, in turn, I love stories very much.

I was greatly influenced by the fascinating link created by coffee trees. My grandmother, Hassana Ismail, preserved many stories for me about its importance in society, how it was cultivated, and the rituals of harvesting back then. She mentioned in one of the stories that at the beginning of the harvest, she and her mother would go to the farm. She would pick a few coffee beans in her hands and exchange them for other goods, a unique privilege that only coffee had. Many stories, all of which instilled in me love and pride for this tree, continually drive me to reflect its impact in paintings, even if only a little is revealed.”

How can coffee transform from a beverage into an identity and history, and how do you seek to convey this idea through your artistic works?

“In reality, coffee beans can never be confined to the word ‘beverage.’ They overflow from their cup, and they have many dimensions.

From the port of Mokha, this fruit witnessed civilizations, eras, and kingdoms. It created many contradictions as people doubted and clung to it, hiding it in a jar for decades as one of the most precious treasures. We see throughout history how wars were waged for it, and other wars were extinguished because of it.

When we witness today how our ancestors spent their lives preserving it despite the difficulties that mostly bent their backs, the picture becomes clear. This is precisely why I painted my latest piece titled ‘Descendants of the Sun’ for Hajjah Fatima, one of the coffee farmers in Mahwit, as a loud sign for the Yemeni coffee revolution in every era. She reached the age of eighty and still holds onto her beans, so it became imperative for me to immortalize her story within the folds of a painting.

How can art contribute to raising awareness of the importance of Yemeni coffee and its history in local and global communities?

“Since ancient times until today, art has been the main factor in conveying and preserving civilizations. For me, I see art alongside the history of coffee as an ancient window adorned with the colors of Yemeni lunar, each time portraying a scene that must be immortalized. So, I see them narrating their stories through my window, not the other way around. We truly see how the importance of this thing has imposed its reality on societies, whether local or international.”

 

How do you envision the future of the coffee industry in Yemen, and what role can art play in supporting it and shedding light on its heritage?

“The previous periods were challenging for Yemeni coffee, as its production significantly declined due to economic difficulties and environmental degradation. But today, we are living in an era of revival like never before. All sectors are working at full capacity to elevate it to stages surpassing its predecessors, starting from the land and supporting farmers by all means, up to roasting and presenting it. From our perspective today, I see a promising future waiting.

As for art, it is the constant companion to these beans and their land, embracing its roots tightly to preserve them from oblivion. They will always tell stories together.”

Fatima Abdul Khabeer: Inspirational Journey of a Yemeni Woman from Rural Taiz in Coffee Farming and Production

Dubai, January 27, 2024 (QW): In the rugged terrains of Yemen, where societal constraints often hinder women from pursuing entrepreneurial endeavors, a story of flexibility, wisdom, and determination has emerged. This is the inspirational journey of Fatima AbdulKhabeer, a Yemeni woman hailing from highly conservative rural areas, who defied social norms and founded a pioneering women’s agricultural association in the famous Sabr Mountain in Taiz Province, Yemen.

Fatima Abdul Khabeer’s remarkable journey garnered significant attention at the World of Coffee Dubai 2024, where she shared her journey from the inception of the association to its accomplishments up to the present.

Foundation Years   

In 2001, the “Talouq Feminine Association” was established, and over the years, the association grew to include 70 members engaged in coffee cultivation and production.

The association successfully implemented various projects, including a post-harvest coffee technology project funded by the French Embassy, amounting to approximately 250,000 USD. Additionally, they constructed 45 rainwater harvesting tanks and provided specialized training for over 400 farmers.

In 2009, Fatima Abdul Khabeer traveled to Germany, a journey that facilitated connections with foreign companies and marked a qualitative leap in understanding the importance of coffee quality, flavors, tasting techniques, and different aromas.

In 2010, she participated in the Second International Coffee Conference in Yemen, showcasing Talouq Valley’s coffee products and establishing partnerships, notably with “Mokha 1450,” a pivotal collaboration that began in 2013.

In 2014, Fatima embarked on a second journey to Ethiopia with the aim of exchanging experiences with Ethiopian coffee farmers and specialized associations.

Things were progressing well until 2015 when a dramatic shift occurred. Political conflicts intensified in Yemen, escalating into a war, bringing work to a complete halt. However, Fatima’s journey did not stop. Since 2017, she has led trips and visits to share experiences and transfer knowledge to farmers from various regions.

In 2022, the impact of climate change on farms became noticeable, prompting the association to monitor and track changes in coffee production caused by climate variations.

In 2023, the association received training from theSpecialty Coffee Association, initiating the peeling and cleaning operations for farmers from different regions with the goal of supporting exports.

At the Dubai Coffee World Exhibition 2024, Fatima AbdulKhabeer highlighted the current challenges facing Yemeni coffee farmers, including armed conflicts, climate change impacts, limited funding and support for farmers’ needs, export and marketing difficulties, and unfair competition from local traders.

She also outlined the stages of obtaining specialty coffee in Yemen:

  1. Pre-Harvest: Monitoring fruits in farms, protecting them from pests and nutritional deficiencies.
  2. Harvest: Careful selection and harvesting of ripe coffee beans.
  3. Drying: Sun-drying coffee beans on beds while controlling temperature and humidity to maintain quality.
  4. Storage: Appropriate storage conditions to preserve flavors and aromas, avoiding excessive heat, moisture, and odors.

Fatima AbdulKhabeer proudly stopped at some success stations in her career, as in 2017 she achieved third place in UAE Ibrik Championship , and in 2017 she achieved first place in the same tournament and fourth place in 2018.

Fatima AbdulKhabeer concluded her presentation by providing an overview of the current status of specialty coffee in Yemen, emphasizing that Yemen lacks sufficient expertise in preparing specialty coffee. Nevertheless, some regions have initiated serious efforts by training farmers, purchasing their crops, and selling them to external companies specializing in coffee.