The specialty coffee industry thrives on the discovery of new and intriguing arabica coffee varieties, and it’s never more evident than at coffee competitions. In the final round of the 2023 World Barista Championship, two participants showcased the Pink Bourbon variety, known for its delicate pink hue and intricate flavor profile, which has been piquing the interest of coffee enthusiasts for some time now.
Pink Bourbon has been gaining popularity among roasters and coffee shops in recent years, but its mysterious origins leave much room for exploration. Can it achieve the same level of acclaim as Gesha or other similar varieties? To uncover more about Pink Bourbon’s allure and potential, I reached out to key players in the coffee industry.
- Unearthing the Origins of Pink Bourbon
The origins of Pink Bourbon, like many other arabica varieties, remain a mystery. Rodrigo Sanchez Valencia, a producer at Finca Monteblanco and Aromas del Sur, provides insights into this enigmatic coffee. He’s often credited with helping discover Pink Bourbon. Rodrigo explains that his team at Aromas del Sur stumbled upon Pink Bourbon in 2013, believing it to be native to southern Huila in Colombia.
According to Rodrigo, Pink Bourbon first surfaced in the San Adolfo area of the Acevedo municipality in Huila during the 1980s, although the specifics of its origins remain unverified. This unique variety gained popularity when coffee leaf rust (la roya) plagued the region in the 1980s. Pink Bourbon proved to be disease-resistant and adaptable, making it a preferred choice among coffee producers.
- Dispelling Previous Claims
It’s a common belief that Pink Bourbon is a natural hybrid of Red and Yellow Bourbon varieties, but recent research suggests otherwise. Café Imports published a groundbreaking article in late September 2023, revealing that genetic testing, in collaboration with RD2 Vision, indicates Pink Bourbon likely has roots in an Ethiopian landrace variety. However, it’s crucial to note that this research is not yet scientifically verified, leaving Pink Bourbon’s exact heritage shrouded in uncertainty.
- The Challenge of Cultivating Pink Bourbon
Cultivating Pink Bourbon is no walk in the park, even in ideal conditions. Producers must meticulously care for these plants and ensure they are isolated from other varieties to ensure successful cross-pollination.
Rodrigo, having worked extensively with Pink Bourbon, highlights its resilience and productivity. “To date, we’re not aware of any diseases to which it’s susceptible,” he explains.
Boram Um, co-owner of Um Coffee Co. and Fazenda Um, reveals that Pink Bourbon’s growth experience can vary depending on the terroir. In his Brazilian farm, Pink Bourbon is cultivated under controlled and protected conditions due to its susceptibility to diseases and fungi.
Isaiah Sheese, owner of Archetype Coffee, who also used Pink Bourbon in the 2023 World Barista Championship, notes subtle differences in the physical characteristics of Pink Bourbon cherries. He attributes these variations to factors such as elevation and location.
One of the most distinctive traits of Pink Bourbon is its slight pink hue, a characteristic cherished by coffee enthusiasts.
- The Flavor of Pink Bourbon
Pink Bourbon’s allure extends beyond its unique appearance to its complex and delightful flavor profile. Boram describes it as typically more acidic, reminiscent of citrus fruits, with delicate notes of white florals and honey-like sweetness.
Isaiah concurs, likening Pink Bourbon to washed Ethiopians or Panamanian Geshas, with flavors of floral, pink lemonade, honeysuckle, jasmine, and a silky, elegant texture.
Rodrigo, on the other hand, often detects tropical notes in Pink Bourbon, such as peach, papaya, melon, as well as floral notes like jasmine, rose, and green tea. He emphasizes its well-balanced body and acidity.
- Enhancing Flavor Through Processing
As with other coffee varieties, the choice of processing methods can accentuate Pink Bourbon’s flavors. Rodrigo notes that Pink Bourbon cherries contain higher sugar content, making them adaptable to various processing techniques. He favors cold fermentation to improve complexity.
Boram found that anaerobic fermentation worked well with Pink Bourbon from his Brazilian farm, enhancing its sweet floral and honey notes. Isaiah, who sourced his Pink Bourbon from Colombia, appreciated the two-stage thermal shock fermentation process introduced by Diego Bermudez.
Roasting Pink Bourbon demands a careful approach. Isaiah, who used a unique two-stage thermal shock process for his Pink Bourbon, adjusted his roasting technique accordingly. He also utilized the Stronghold S7 roaster, which differs from traditional drum machines due to its halogen-powered heat source.
Boram made temperature adjustments during roasting, given the climatic conditions in Brazil, to ensure proper development.
- The Future of Pink Bourbon
The potential market for Pink Bourbon appears promising, with growing interest in this variety year after year. However, challenges in scaling up production may limit its availability in coffee shops and roasteries.
Rodrigo is optimistic about Pink Bourbon’s future in the Colombian specialty coffee sector, believing it will remain a vital variety. He is proud to be among the pioneering producers of this unique coffee.
Boram envisions the success of Colombian producers with Pink Bourbon encouraging its cultivation in other countries, including Brazil.
As the specialty coffee world seeks the next “it” variety, Pink Bourbon with its captivating qualities and evolving popularity has the potential to become the next darling of specialty coffee. However, this journey may take time.
