For some years now, experimental processing techniques have been a hot topic in the specialty coffee sector. These processing methods tend to result in more complex and unique sensory profiles, which also have more fruity flavours. In turn, they are becoming more and more popular among coffee professionals and enthusiasts alike.

Fermentation in processing plays a key role to create these fruitier flavours. However, up until recently, little was known about how this happens.

Last month, Zurich University of Applied Sciences’ (ZHAW) Coffee Excellence Centre presented its study on fermented coffee flavours at the American Chemical Society Spring 2023 meeting. As part of its findings, ZHAW identified three chemical compounds which directly contribute to fruity flavours and aromas in fermented coffee.

Naturally, this raises a lot of questions. But one of the more prominent is how might this research influence coffee processing methods in the coming years?
WHY DOES FERMENTATION MAKE COFFEE TASTE MORE FRUITY?
As the specialty coffee market has grown and diversified over the past few years, so have processing methods, too. Recently, more and more farmers have started using controlled fermentation to enhance coffee quality and flavour.

Generally speaking, this is done in two main ways. These are anaerobic or aerobic fermentation (which are different due to the absence or presence of oxygen). The removal of or presence of oxygen triggers several chemical reactions which create various acids and alcohols.

As a result, the sugars in the fruit of the coffee will break down over a prolonged period of time. This means the coffee will taste much sweeter and more complex, with more fruity and “winey” aromas and flavours.

We know that using particular yeasts and strains of bacteria during coffee fermentation can create specific sensory profiles. However, so far, there has been a somewhat limited understanding of which particular chemical compounds are responsible for creating certain flavours and aromas.

Looking at different processing methods
In its recent research, ZHAW outlined how it identified three distinct chemical compounds which create “the intense fruity flavour and the raspberry scent of a fermented coffee”.

Sasa Sestic is the founder and CEO of Project Origin in Australia, which helped to fund the research project. He also provided the coffee for the study: a green tip Gesha from Iris Estate in Panama, which Sasa co-owns with Jamison Savage.

“If we can understand how volatile compounds are formed at farm level, then we can understand how to highlight them through processing methods,” he says. “We unlock the potential to emphasise terroir with the support of science.”

A team led by Dr. Chahan Yeretzian, Head of the Coffee Excellence Centre, and Dr. Samo Smrke, Head of Coffee Transformation at the Coffee Excellence Centre, sorted the coffee into three different categories. These were according to processing method:

Washed processing (producers remove all flesh and mucilage from the beans before drying)
Pulped natural carbonic maceration processing (producers remove skin of the fruit while pulp is left intact)
Natural carbonic maceration
Similar to processes used in wine making, carbonic maceration has become more prominent in specialty coffee. For example, Sasa used a carbonic macerated Sudan Rume variety in his winning 2015 World Barista Championship routine.

The process involves placing cherries in sealed tanks and flushing them with carbon dioxide to remove any residual oxygen. Like other fermentation processing methods, carbonic maceration often results in more bright, wine-like, and fruity flavours.
Analysing different coffees
As part of the study, each coffee was brewed the same way. In order to analyse the aroma of all samples, ZHAW used a process known as gas chromatography-olfactometry (GC-O).

This is when scientists uses a gas chromatograph to separate individual components of a mixture or substance. They then pass through a mass spectrometer to identify each individual component.

Following this, human assessors were then asked to describe any aromas they could pick up on.

Chahan and Samo explain why this type of analysis was also used in conjunction with gas chromatography.

“We saw descriptors, such as ‘extremely sweet’, ‘crazy like strawberry’, and ‘artificially sweet’,” they say. “All the panellists were able to point out this characteristic in the carbonic macerated coffee.

“However, when examining the mass spectrometry data of the same coffee, at the exact same time and position in the chromatogram as panellists detected this unique and strong aroma, we were not able to detect compounds that could be attributed to those flavours,” they add.

“This confirms what flavour scientists have known since long: our nose outperforms even the best instrument on some of these low-threshold aro

ma active compounds that are so important to our understanding of the flavours we perceive,” Chahan and Samo continue.
COULD RESEARCH INFLUENCE MORE PRODUCERS TO STANDARDISE PROCESSING TECHNIQUES?
The results of ZHAW’s study concluded that six chemical compounds are responsible for fruity aromas and flavours in fermented coffee. However, the researchers stated that they were only able to identify three of them:

2-methylpropanal
3-methylbutanal
Ethyl 3-methylbutanoate
“One very intense fruity smelling compound, ethyl 3-methylbutanoate, stood out in the natural carbonic macerated coffee,” Chahan and Samo say. “It was found to be 125-times more abundant than in the washed coffee.”

It’s important to note scientists involved in the study emphasise that further research is necessary to identify the other three compounds. Moreover, we also need to know how these compounds are formed in the first place.

Farmers have been using particular yeasts, bacteria, and microorganisms during processing to control and enhance coffee flavour for some time now. But at the same time, this is clear evidence that specific chemical compounds result in the more characteristic fruity flavours we associate with experimentally processed coffees.

Ultimately, this leads us to several important questions. Arguably, however, the most important is if we know which compounds cause certain flavours, what does this mean for farmers?

Could producers develop and use more standardised processing methods? And would this be especially apparent with processing methods that result in more targeted and specific flavour profiles?

A question of value addition
Once producers know which specific compounds cause certain flavours, they can potentially process coffee with more intent and control. In turn, they can target particular sensory profiles. Eventually, this could lead to producing experimentally processed coffee on a larger scale – potentially allowing producers to add more value to their coffee.

“We first need to know how much potential a coffee has in the first place, in terms of flavour profile and volatile compounds,” Sasa says. “Then, through processing, we can determine how the amount of more desirable volatile compounds can be increased, so we can experience new flavours and aromas.”

Chahan and Samo agree, saying: “The practical implication of our study is that it provides farmers with new ways to improve the quality and quantity of fruity notes through post-harvest processing.

“This may eventually also help producers in a fast-growing market of fermented coffee to take more informed positions, as allegations on coffees ‘infused’ with fruit are surfacing,” they add.

The other side of the coin
However, with this in mind, we also need to acknowledge that not all coffee farmers have the ability to try fermentation and other experimental processing methods. These processing techniques often require significant upfront investment and specialist equipment which some producers may not have access to.

Moreover, for many smallholder farmers, the risks of such experimental processing methods may outweigh the benefits. Although these coffees can sometimes result in higher prices, they are typically more expensive to produce than more “traditional” processed coffees.

Similarly, without proper quality control protocols in place, producers may end up creating less desirable sensory profiles of fermented coffee – such as sour, overly fermented, or rancid flavours.
Although experimentally processed coffees are certainly becoming more popular, they only represent a fraction of the wider coffee market.

However, that’s not to say that research like this doesn’t benefit farmers who produce these kinds of coffees. In fact, with further studies conducted in the future, it could be possible to create more “accessible” experimental processing methods – just as long as farmers have access to the right infrastructure and support.

It’s fair to say that many specialty coffee brands base their marketing strategies around the idea that coffee consumers want to be more connected to farmers. These branding techniques largely revolve around disseminating more information about where coffee comes from, including the farmers who grow it.

The majority of specialty coffee professionals want to know as much information about origin as possible. This includes processing method, variety, altitude, and terroir. And while many coffee businesses believe that consumers also want to know the same information, is this really an accurate assumption?

To learn more, I spoke to Kosta Kallivrousis of Algrano, Marianella Baez Jost of Café con Amor, and Pedro Miguel Echavarría of Pergamino Coffee. Read on to learn their insights on whether consumers want to be more connected to origin.
THE ROLE OF FARMERS IN SPECIALTY COFFEE MARKETING
If you walk into almost any specialty coffee shop in any country around the world, you’re likely to see some kind of recognition of or homage to coffee farmers. This can range from photos of pickers on farms on the walls to detailed information about producers and co-operatives on coffee packaging.

In light of this, it certainly rings true that specialty coffee shops and roasters want to make sure that their products are connected to producers in some way. But why is this?

Forging connection to origin: a specialty “special”
One of the main selling points of specialty coffee is that it is more sustainable, traceable, and transparent than commodity-grade coffee. Therefore, it’s essential that roasters and coffee shops are able to bridge the gap between producers and consumers in order to communicate these attributes more effectively.

Kosta Kallivrousis is the Sales Manager at Algrano in the US. He tells me when specialty coffee brands seek to set themselves apart from competitors, marketing plays an instrumental role.

“A lot of specialty coffee branding and marketing is about showcasing what makes you distinctive,” he says. “It’s an industry that was born from marketing, rather than consumer demand.”

Marianella is the co-founder of Farmers Project Specialty Coffee and a producer at Café con Amor in Costa Rica. She agrees, saying that specialty coffee brands tell the stories of producers as a way of differentiating themselves from commodity-grade coffee companies.

“It demonstrates that you have a direct relationship with suppliers, which means as a brand you have more knowledge and your coffee is more traceable,” she tells me. “This helps to elevate the quality perception of your coffee, and shows that you’re going the extra mile [when sourcing].”

Demonstrating sustainable practices effectively
Displaying photos of coffee farms in shops or on websites, as well as providing information about a coffee’s origin, allows roasters and other coffee businesses to indicate that they have good relationships with their producers.

Pedro is the General Manager at Pergamino Coffee in Colombia. He explains that most specialty coffee brands want to demonstrate that they source and purchase their products fairly and sustainably.

“Translating the complexities associated with this into a simple marketing tactic is incredibly difficult – even for the most knowledgeable and educated consumers,” he says.

In recent years, a growing number of specialty coffee consumers do want to be reassured that the brands they buy from are complying with good environmental and ethical practices. At the same time, however, it’s fair to assume that some of these consumers aren’t familiar with what these practices really entail so communicating them effectively can be a challenge.

Romanticism and fetishisation
There’s no doubt that providing consumers with more information about origin is a valuable way for farmers to receive worthy credit for their hard work. However, it can quickly turn into “romanticism” if not carried out effectively. This leads some consumers to have idealised views of coffee farmers. Ultimately, a coffee farm is a business, and consumers should view them that way, too.

“Marketing can present a very blurry picture of the reality which producers face,” Marianella explains. “It’s difficult for consumers to discern between what is real and what is smoke and mirrors.”

She tells me that she once saw pictures of her farm on a brand’s website. However, she had never worked with them, and wasn’t even aware of them. Marianella explains that when she emailed them, they stated that they didn’t always know where their photos came from.

“This means some companies can make false claims by telling a story, but they have never even visited that country,” she adds.

Moreover, the use of certain images can perpetuate the idea of the “impoverished” or “exotic” coffee farmer. While some smallholders across the Bean Belt certainly live below the poverty line, this isn’t the case for all producers. Pushing narratives like this, as well as the idea that Western consumers are “saviours”, often creates widespread false perceptions about coffee producers –resulting in their fetishisation.

“The majority of people in the specialty coffee industry want to make a difference and do some good,” Kosta says. “However, the ways of doing so can be complicated.

“Is there consent from farmers to use their images and stories?” he posits. “They need to actually add value to producers, so they should be compensated, or at the very least, they should create these marketing strategies in partnership with farmers.”
WHAT DO SPECIALTY COFFEE CONSUMERS REALLY WANT?
In line with being more connected to origin, there are a number of purchasing factors which specialty coffee consumers tend to value the most.

First quality, then sustainability
The National Coffee Association’s 2022 National Coffee Data Trends Specialty Coffee Report report states that:

Around 69% of specialty coffee consumers say they are more likely to buy coffee because it’s fresh
An estimated 64% of respondents stated that paying farmers a fair price is important
Some 57% said proper treatment of farm workers influences their purchasing decisions
Kosta, meanwhile, tells me that he thinks consumers’ interest in paying producers a higher price could be inherently linked to alleviating guilt regarding economic and social inequity between themselves and producers.

“Maybe buying some coffee to address that, even in a small way, helps to absolve some of that guilt,” he says.

Building trust
Pedro believes that rather than explaining complex issues, such as the volatility of the C price, consumers want reassurance that the brands they buy from have ethical business practices.

Ultimately, this widens the gap between consumers and producers, rather than closing it. Consumers aren’t able to know the full extent of challenges which producers face in origin countries. And given the geographical distance between the two – and potential wide economic disparity – this is understandable.

“I don’t think that coffee consumers want to be more connected to farmers, per say,” Marianella says. “However, they do want to be more knowledgeable about the product: where it comes from, how it’s produced, and whether it was grown and sourced ethically.”

She tells me that Café con Amor runs a number of initiatives which directly benefit the local farming community. Marianella explains that she uses social media to show her customers how the programmes are impacting communities. She says this helps to build more trust with the consumer.

Smaller roasters with shorter supply chains tend to be able to do this more effectively than larger brands. Generally speaking, this is because they are in direct contact with producers. In turn, this can create more of a connection with consumers.

Traceability
In recent years, it’s become increasingly apparent that more and more consumers want to know where their coffee comes from.

“We need real traceability,” Marianella says. “Customers don’t need certifications and seals that tell them their coffee is sustainable. They want more concrete information that’s practical, honest, and specific.”

Pedro agrees saying: “There’s a big percentage of our loyal customers who really care, and ask about origin, farmers, our sourcing strategy, and how we pay premiums for certain coffees.

“Other people, however, may not have this level of knowledge about coffee, nor the time or interest to dig deeper,” he adds.

Pedro also points out that it’s presumptuous to believe that every consumer will have an in-depth knowledge of the coffee industry and how it operates.

“If we’re going to measure every consumer by that standard, then we should also do the same with ourselves,” he says. “Do we also know everything about the coffees we source? It’s hypocritical in a way.”
HOW CAN SPECIALTY COFFEE BRANDS LEVERAGE CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR TO CREATE REAL IMPACT FOR FARMERS?
There seems to be somewhat of a disconnect between what coffee consumers really want and what the specialty coffee sector would like them to want.

I asked Kosta, Marianella, and Pedro how brands can create real impact at origin through their marketing strategies.

Commitment and accountability
“What the specialty coffee industry suffers from the most is the relentless search for innovation – the latest roast profile, variety, or processing technique, for instance,” Kosta says. “But the thing that’s missing is commitment.

“The reality is that the coffee industry steers the ship,” he adds. “So we have a big responsibility to remain accountable and stay true to our social and environmental commitments.”

Technology and traceability
“Technology helps to resolve a lack of traceability by connecting roasters to origin,” Marianella explains. “For example, we can connect through mobile apps and connect from our farm with roasters all over the world.

“The possibilities of having face-to-face conversations, albeit online, add another layer of forging a direct relationship with origin,” she adds.

Pedro advises roasters to build their sourcing models around how they want to integrate sustainability into their business model. They can then create marketing strategies around that – not the other way round.

He also urges consumers to make sure that the coffees they buy (particularly blends) are sourced ethically.

“For example, there’s a lot more work that needs to be done in terms of transparency when it comes to blends than microlots,” he says.

Forging more trust
“For any business, trust is one of the hardest things to achieve and one of the easiest things to lose,” Pedro says. “You add real value when consumers trust the brand they’re buying from.

“Every roaster has to look within and ask themselves if they feel good about their buying practices – and communicate that,” he adds. “In an era of information, if there are any malpractices in your supply chain, this trust can be jeopardised.”

On a similar note, Kosta explains that portraying an “imaginary” connection with origin can be a form of fetishising. In turn, it can be a betrayal of consumers’ trust.

“Ultimately, if a marketing strategy ends up benefiting the company and not the communities it promotes, it becomes false advertising and is an abuse of customer trust,” he says.
The issues are complex and difficult to break down. However, it remains unclear whether the specialty coffee industry’s social and environmental goals are a response to consumer demand, or whether they emerged to influence it.

Either way, it’s clear that the majority of specialty coffee drinkers do want to know where their coffee came from, who grew it, and if they are being treated fairly.

Moving forward, specialty coffee brands need to make sure that their marketing strategies remain honest, ethical, and fair. For consumers, demanding more traceability and transparency from brands is the best way to play a role.

INSTANT COFFEE could soon be a thing of the past and takeaway orders will drive the future of the sector, according to a new survey of the British coffee industry.

The research, commissioned by Cairngorm Coffee, a UK specialty roaster, explored the lasting impact of Covid-19 on coffee consumers and their purchasing habits.

It found that one in three of those aged 25 and under – known as Gen Z – will “never drink instant coffee again”, while 43% of millennials said they are drinking “more coffee than ever” since the pandemic.

Takeaway coffees have also remained popular after months-long lockdowns between March 2020 and early 2022 meant they were the only way for consumers to drink coffee out-of-home. According to the survey, around a third of Gen Z respondents would now class a takeaway coffee as a necessity, rather than a luxury.

Robi Lambie, who found Cairngorm Coffee in 2014, says the data shows a significant behavioural change among younger audiences as a result of Covid-19.

“We know anecdotally that a lot of our customers really commenced their coffee journey back at the start of lockdown,” he explains. “The data from this survey backs up the fact that Gen Z and millennials, in particular, have really run with this trend over the last few years.

“From the survey, we’ve seen that 18% of Gen Zers have upped their at-home coffee game as a result of lockdown, and we’ve seen these trends play out with more and more customers opting to pick up a bag of our freshly-roasted speciality coffee to enjoy at home – it seems clear these trends are here to stay.”

The rise of the coffee shop office

When the first national lockdown was declared on March 23, 2020, offices were among those forced to close, leaving employees with no choice but to work from home.

As restrictions eased, a full-scale return to office working was slow to materialise. For many businesses, home-working became ingrained into company policy, while others adopted a hybrid system of “flexible working”.

Coffee shops have played a key role in fostering this new culture. With plug sockets, wifi connection, and a ready supply of hot drinks, they offer a space away from home that people increasingly see as an office-like space.

This is reflected by Cairngorm’s study, which indicates that almost half (48%) of respondents from Gen Z are now likely to work from a coffee shop. And, according to Robi, this means long-held views about the use of laptops in coffee shops are starting to change.

“There used to be a bit of a taboo surrounding laptops in cafés and it’s one thing we definitely had to consider,” he says.

“We’ve seen friends throughout the industry take a stand and ban laptops or work meetings – but for us it’s all about being respectful, not outstaying your welcome when others are desperate for a seat, and ensuring you continue to order coffee while working. There’s a balance in there somewhere which works for both parties.”

The end of instant coffee?

Instant coffee has undergone something of a makeover over the last few years. Blue Bottle Coffee unveiled its “craft instant” last year, while Nescafé teamed up with specialty roasters Perky Blenders and Grindsmith to launch its own products in the space.

Some industry observers suggest it is a response to the growing demand for convenience that gathered pace during the Covid-19 outbreak. However, as the research suggests, instant coffee doesn’t make the quality cut when it comes to younger consumers, with 33% reportedly switching it out in favour of specialty coffee.

Instead, Robi says millennials and Gen Zers are increasingly “leaning into” conscious buying – and, whichever way it is positioned by companies, instant coffee pales in comparison to specialty coffee wherever this is concerned.

He adds: “Rather than opting for mass-produced, ethically questionable sources for their morning cup, they’re increasingly moving towards the artisanal, small-batch approach that represents the farmers and producers we work with.”

 

Would you try ‘wellness’ coffee? Adding vitamins to your morning brew is the new ritual

When it comes to new health buzzwords, wellness coffee is one that we can get on board with.

After all, who wouldn’t want a daily vitamin boost that’s as easy as sipping on your morning brew?

Coffee company Rokit has released a buzzworthy little product, the Mind Boost Pods and Immunity Boost Pods, that they claim to be the UK’s first coffee pods with added vitamins, minerals, and botanicals which aim to boost your overall health.

The Mind Boost pods contain 100% Arabica coffee that has been enriched with vitamins B2, B3, B5, B6 and B12, which the brand claims will support your nervous system and contribute to better mental performance.

While the Immunity Boost pods are also made from 100% Arabica coffee, and enriched with vitamins B6, B12, D and Zinc to support a healthy immune system.

The good news is that the pods are easy to use, compatible with Nespresso machines, 100% recyclable, available in Tesco and they’ll be on sale this month, down to £3 from £4 (sale runs from March 22 to April 11, FYI).

That’s all well and good, but can taking our vitamins along with coffee actually benefit our health, and is it an effective combo? We take a closer look.

Should caffeine and vitamins mix?
There’s no easy answer, but according to registered nutritionist Uta Boellinger, founder of Cannelle Nutrition, it can be a good option for those who aren’t getting the right vitamins from their diet.

She tells us: ‘On the one hand, if someone is unwilling and unable to make any dietary changes and won’t take any supplements in other forms then perhaps having them in their coffee is the best option.’

Be that as it may, BANT registered nutritionist Eva Humphries explains that we need to be wary of the type of nutrients added to our coffee so we can be realistic about the effect.

Humphries explains: ‘It is also worth noting that synthetic nutrients, such as those typically added to coffee, may not be in the right form for us to fully absorb. So, we could end up in a scenario where we think we are getting 100% of our daily recommended intake of a specific vitamin from that enrich-coffee, but we may only actually absorb 10% of that nutrient.’

It’s also worth noting that caffeine isn’t a positive thing for everybody, as Boellinger continues: ‘As a nutritionist I almost always recommend people reduce their caffeine intake and if they come to see me for anything stress-related we usually remove it completely.’

How useful are supplements for our health?
According to Boellinger, supplements are a useful tool for boosting our overall health: ‘In my clinic I always go for a food-first approach but supplements are not only necessary when there is a deficiency, but can help us see results more quickly as they may be more highly concentrated and easier to include than certain foods.’

They go on to advise, however, that instead of looking at it as a ‘one-size fits all’ approach, ‘I would recommend speaking to a nutritionist if you want to take anything other than Vitamin D or a multivitamin to find out what works for you,’ and added: ‘It’s also important to ensure they don’t interfere with any medication you may be on.’

Humphries adds: ‘As a nutritionist, I suggest supplements to my clients for shorter periods of time if there is a very specific need for them. For example, an athlete will likely have nutrient needs so high that it may be a struggle to meet those needs through food alone. In this context, supplements may be useful. On a more general level, it would be more advantageous to get the vitamins we need from food.’